They’ve never heard of Hunza Pie in Hunza…Instead, I settle for a mountain-style cappuccino made on a tiny machine that an enterprising young Hunzakot has shipped up from Karachi, far to the south They’ve never heard of Hunza Pie in Hunza. Nowhere among the bazaars and tea shops of high Karimabad can I find the succulent wedge of cheese, spinach and wholemeal pastry that epitomised 1970’s “hippie vego” cuisine – and that came, one imagined, with lashings of longevity and quasi-Himalayan wisdom. Instead of Hunza Pie, I settle for a mountain-style cappuccino made on a tiny machine that an enterprising young Hunzakot has shipped up from Karachi, far to the south.
The Karakoram mountains of northern Pakistan rise in a vertical backdrop above ancient Karimabad, the largest settlement in Hunza. Saw tooth wedges of air and earth interlock while, far below, the Hunza River, coloured like wet cement, churns its way south, returning the mountains to the Indian Ocean grain by grain\
. A small but steady stream of tourists tackle the high road to Hunza. Getting there is more than half the adventure. The Karakoram Highway (jointly built by China and Pakistan between 1958 and 1978) is often affected by glaciers and washouts – after all, Karakoram is a Turkic term for “crumbling rock” – and fearless Pakistan Army bulldozer drivers are permanently deployed to keep the “KKH” safe.
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