Before you start applying the makeup, you need to prepare your face so it goes on smoothly. Thoroughly clean your face, tying back hair where necessary, and for men, have a shave. (Bearded men can apply grease paint makeup but it can be tricky keeping it out of the hair.) Remember that grease makeup will stain clothes, so put on an old button-up shirt. After your skin dries, apply a very light moisturizer.
Working with the lightest color first – usually white – and a good quality brush or sponge, or your fingers, you can outline the area and then fill it in. Alternatively you can paint following the contours of your face. The grease makeup may not go on smoothly if it is too cold, which you can remedy by putting a little dab of the color of in the palm of your hand for a minute. After painting, use your fingers to ‘pat’ the makeup into your skin.
Unlike water-based makeup, grease makeup requires you to paint your face and then ‘set’ it with a professional setting powder, or baby or talcum powder. (If you go with talcum, be sure to confirm beforehand that you don’t have an allergic reaction to it.) You can ‘set’ the grease makeup either in stages following each color’s application, or at the end of all the painting. Some people prefer the latter, applying all the colors before setting with powder, because they can fix mistakes more easily. The downside however is that you risk mixing colors accidentally and smearing your work.
Whether you ‘set’ in stages or at the end, one reliable way to apply the powder is to partly fill a small, clean, cotton tube sock with the powder, tie it up, and then gently dab your face. Allow the powder sit for a half a minute or so before dusting the excess off with a powder brush. The painted areas should no longer feel moist or sticky – if this is not the case, you probably need more powder. Once the grease makeup has set, it should be fairly smudge-proof. If something needs correcting at this point, you can use Q-Tips soaked in baby oil, but remember that neighboring areas could now be smudged.
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